Quick answer: A paludarium is an enclosure with a dedicated water section and a land section. Build it by dividing the tank with stacked stone, egg-crate or a sealed glass divider. Fill the land side with drainage and bioactive soil, set large pieces of Malaysian driftwood or spiderwood crossing from water to land, and run a small filter or pump in the water side. Plant aquatic and bog plants at the waterline and tropical terrarium plants on land.
Paludarium, riparium or vivarium with a pond?
| Type | Water | Land | Typical animals |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vivarium with water feature | Small dish or shallow pool | Most of the enclosure | Tree frogs, geckos, dart frogs |
| Paludarium | 25–60% of the floor | 40–75% | Newts, fire-bellied toads, fish, shrimp, semi-aquatic frogs |
| Riparium | Mostly water | Plants in floating or wall planters | Fish and shrimp, with emergent plants |
Choosing an enclosure
- Use a glass aquarium or a purpose-built paludarium. Many front-opening terrariums aren't watertight above a few centimetres, so check before filling.
- Taller tanks look more dramatic, because driftwood can rise from the water to the top.
- Plan for weight: water is about 1 kg per litre. A 20 L water section adds 20 kg.
- Leave access for maintenance: water changes, filter cleaning and pruning.
Why driftwood is the centrepiece
Driftwood and spiderwood visually link the water and land and look natural half-submerged. They also give animals a way to climb out of the water. Malaysian driftwood is dense and sinks readily, so it's perfect for the water side. Branchy Red Mekong and Amur spiderwood add fine detail above the water. Mopani is another dense, two-tone wood that sinks well.
Expect tannins. Many driftwoods release tannins that tint water tea-brown. This is harmless and many keepers like the "blackwater" look. To reduce it, soak the wood for 1–2 weeks with water changes, or boil smaller pieces. See how to clean and prepare wood for a terrarium.
Step 1: Plan the water-to-land ratio
Sketch the layout from above and from the front. Decide where the waterline sits, and where the main driftwood piece will cross from water to land. A diagonal shoreline from the front corner to the back of the opposite side looks more natural than a straight divider.
Step 2: Build the land divider
Common methods:
- Stacked stone: Seiryu stone or feather rock stacked into a wall and sealed with silicone or aquarium-safe foam. It looks natural, but it's heavy.
- Egg-crate and mesh: build a raised platform of plastic egg-crate (lighting diffuser) covered with fibreglass mesh. Water flows underneath, and the land sits on top.
- Glass or acrylic divider: silicone a strip of glass across the tank. Clean and watertight, but less natural. Hide it with stone and wood.
- Foam shaping: pond-safe expanding foam carved into banks and covered with silicone and coco fibre.
Step 3: Land section layers
- A drainage layer of clay balls behind the divider (or the egg-crate platform).
- Mesh barrier.
- Bioactive soil like Canadian-made Jurassic ABG Terrarium Mix from Jurassic Reptile Products.
- Leaf litter and moss on top.
The drainage layer under the land will connect with the water section over time. That's fine, and it can help wick moisture into the soil. Just make sure soil can't wash into the water.
Step 4: Water section and filtration
- Filter: a small internal filter, sponge filter or canister filter sized for the water volume. Hide it behind stone or wood.
- Water features: a small pump can feed a waterfall that runs over cork or stone back into the pool. It looks stunning and adds humidity.
- Substrate: aquarium sand or fine gravel in the water section. Avoid soil, which clouds the water.
- Heater: only if your animals or fish need warmer water than your room provides.
Step 5: Place the driftwood
Place the main piece so it starts in the water and rises onto land or up the background. Secure large pieces with silicone to the glass or with hidden stones. Floating wood that hasn't waterlogged can be weighed down until it sinks on its own. Add smaller branches as perches above the water.
Step 6: Planting the waterline
| Zone | Plants |
|---|---|
| Submerged | Java fern and Anubias tied to driftwood, Cryptocoryne in the sand |
| Waterline / splash zone | Live sphagnum, Ficus pumila, Bucephalandra, Selaginella, Pilea glauca |
| Land | Fittonia, ferns, peperomia, small pothos, begonias |
| Above water on wood | Bromeliads, orchids, Tillandsia (high, ventilated spots only) |
Java fern and Anubias must be tied to wood or rock, never buried. See how to mount plants on wood.
Step 7: Cycle and stock
A water section needs to cycle like any aquarium, so beneficial bacteria can establish to process ammonia. That often takes 4–6 weeks. Test the water before adding fish or shrimp. Meanwhile the land side grows in. See grow-in guide.
Animal ideas
- Fire-bellied toads (semi-aquatic, active and hardy)
- Small newts. Check provincial regulations, as some species are restricted in Canada
- Neocaridina shrimp and small schooling fish like ember tetras in the water section
- Mudskippers (brackish setups only, advanced)
Avoid combining species without careful research on temperature, water quality and predation.
FAQ
Will driftwood rot in water?
Dense hardwoods like Malaysian driftwood and mopani last for years submerged. Soft or unseasoned wood can rot and foul the water.
How do I stop the water from going brown?
Pre-soak the wood, use activated carbon in the filter, and do regular water changes. Tannins fade over time.
Can I use cork bark in a paludarium?
Yes. Cork floats, so it's best above the water as a background or perches. Silicone it in place.