Quick answer: An adult crested gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) needs a vertical enclosure of at least 45 × 45 × 60 cm (18 × 18 × 24 in), room temperatures of 22–26 °C, humidity that rises to 70–90% after an evening misting and dries back to about 50–60% during the day, lots of climbing branches and foliage, and a complete powdered diet with occasional insects. Keep it below 28 °C at all times, and a crestie can live 15–20 years.
Why crested geckos are a great first arboreal reptile
Crested geckos come from the forests of New Caledonia, a group of islands in the South Pacific. They were thought to be extinct until 1994, and every crestie in the Canadian pet trade today is captive bred. They are calm, nocturnal, eat a prepared diet, and do well at normal room temperature, which is why our crested gecko care sheet rates them as a beginner species. If you are comparing options, our guide to the easiest reptiles for beginners puts them side by side with leopard geckos and corn snakes.
This page covers day-to-day husbandry. For a step-by-step build with drainage, soil and plants, follow our article on how to build a bioactive crested gecko vivarium.
Enclosure size
Crested geckos climb, jump and sleep high up, so height matters more than floor space.
| Age / size | Minimum enclosure | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hatchling (under 5 g) | 30 × 30 × 45 cm (12 × 12 × 18 in) | Easier to find food and monitor eating |
| Juvenile (5–20 g) | 45 × 45 × 45 cm (18 × 18 × 18 in) | Dense cover so it feels secure |
| Adult (35 g+) | 45 × 45 × 60 cm (18 × 18 × 24 in) | 60 × 45 × 90 cm (24 × 18 × 36 in) is better |
Front-opening glass or PVC enclosures with a screen top work best. Keep one gecko per enclosure unless you are an experienced keeper housing females together, and never house two males together; they fight.
Temperature and lighting
Most Canadian homes are already in the right range. Aim for:
- Daytime: 22–26 °C, with the top of the enclosure slightly warmer.
- Night: 18–22 °C is fine and even beneficial.
- Danger zone: above 28 °C for any length of time causes heat stress, which can be fatal.
If your room drops below about 20 °C in winter, add a low-wattage heat source such as a small halogen or a deep heat projector on a dimming thermostat, mounted outside the screen. Avoid heat rocks.
UVB is not strictly required, but a low-output T5 tube (around 5–7% UVB, or a "shade dweller" type) on a 12-hour timer is now considered best practice and helps live plants. Place it so the gecko can move into shade.
Humidity and misting
The goal is a daily cycle, not constant wetness. Mist heavily in the evening so humidity climbs to 70–90%, then let it fall to around 50–60% by the next afternoon. Constant saturation leads to mould and respiratory problems; too dry and you will see stuck shed on toes and tail tips. Our article on humidity and ventilation in a bioactive terrarium explains how to balance airflow with moisture. Use a digital hygrometer with a probe, not a stick-on dial.
Substrate and bioactive layers
A bioactive setup suits crested geckos well because they produce small, soft droppings that a clean-up crew handles easily. A typical layer stack from the bottom up:
- Drainage: 3–5 cm of clay bio balls to keep the soil from waterlogging. See our drainage layer guide.
- Barrier: mesh or fabric screen so soil does not wash down.
- Soil: 8–10 cm of Jurassic ABG Terrarium Mix, which holds moisture without turning to mud. Our substrate calculator guide shows how much to order.
- Leaf litter: a layer of magnolia leaves or oak leaves feeds isopods and shelters springtails.
- Moss: patches of fresh sheet moss help hold humidity.
Add springtails and a tropical isopod species once the plants are rooted. Our springtail and isopod guide covers numbers and species.
Décor and plants
Fill the upper two-thirds with diagonal and horizontal perches. Cork branches and sandblasted grapewood give grip and do not rot quickly in humidity, and a cork bark background adds climbing area on the back wall. Cork tubes wedged high make excellent daytime hides. Choose sturdy, non-toxic plants with broad leaves such as pothos, Dracaena, bromeliads and Hoya; our reptile-safe plants guide lists more.
Diet and feeding
- Staple: a complete crested gecko diet powder mixed with water, offered every second or third day. Remove leftovers after 24–36 hours.
- Insects: optional, once or twice a week for adults. Crickets, black soldier fly larvae or small roaches, no longer than the space between the gecko's eyes, dusted with calcium.
- Water: most cresties drink droplets from misting; a shallow dish is a good backup.
- Avoid: baby food and plain fruit as a staple; they lack calcium and cause metabolic bone disease over time.
Handling
Wait two to three weeks after bringing a new gecko home before handling. Then keep sessions short and low over a soft surface, letting the gecko walk hand to hand. Cresties jump, and a startled one may drop its tail. Unlike leopard geckos, crested geckos do not regrow their tail, though they live perfectly well without it.
Health checklist
- Metabolic bone disease: wavy tail, bent limbs or a rubbery jaw. Prevented by a complete diet and calcium on insects.
- Stuck shed: check toes and tail tip; raise humidity briefly and give a humid hide of damp sphagnum moss.
- Floppy tail syndrome: the tail flops over the body when resting upside down. More vertical space and horizontal perches help.
- Weight loss: weigh monthly with a gram scale. Steady loss is a reason to see an exotics vet.
Cleaning and maintenance
In a bioactive enclosure, spot-clean any visible droppings, wipe the glass weekly, trim plants monthly and top up leaf litter as it breaks down. Food dishes should be washed every feeding. Our bioactive maintenance page covers a full schedule.
Costs in Canada (CAD)
| Item | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Crested gecko (normal to mid-grade morph) | $80–250 |
| Adult enclosure | $150–350 |
| Bioactive substrate, drainage, leaf litter, moss | $70–140 |
| Wood, cork and live plants | $60–150 |
| Low-output UVB, thermostat, hygrometer, scale | $80–160 |
| Diet powder and insects (monthly) | $10–25 |
Plan on roughly $450–900 for a complete first setup, plus a vet fund.
Canadian winter tips
- Furnace heat dries indoor air fast, so you may need to mist twice daily or partly cover the screen top with glass or acrylic from November to March.
- Do not place the enclosure near a heat register, drafty window or exterior door.
- Have a backup plan for power outages: a cooler and hand warmers can keep a gecko safe for hours.
- Buy animals during mild weather when you can; shipping in deep cold needs insulated packaging and heat packs.
Our article on keeping a bioactive terrarium healthy through a Canadian winter goes deeper.
FAQ
Do crested geckos need a heat lamp?
Usually not. If your home stays between 22 and 26 °C, no extra heat is needed. Add a low-wattage, thermostat-controlled heat source only if the room drops below about 20 °C, and never let the enclosure exceed 28 °C.
How often should I mist a crested gecko enclosure?
Once heavily in the evening is enough in most homes, with a light morning mist in dry winter months. The enclosure should dry out to around 50–60% humidity during the day.
Can a crested gecko live in a bioactive enclosure?
Yes, they are one of the best reptiles for bioactive. A drainage layer, Jurassic ABG Terrarium Mix, leaf litter, live plants, springtails and isopods create a stable humid environment that needs little cleaning.
Can I keep two crested geckos together?
It is safest to keep them alone. Males fight, and a male with females causes constant breeding stress. Experienced keepers sometimes house similar-sized females together in a larger enclosure, but watch closely for bullying.
How long do crested geckos live?
With good care, 15–20 years is common, so plan for a long-term commitment.